![]() Especially in the many videos online of professionals who can flawlessly tool an entire window in seconds. I first use a glazing knife to simply push the putty tight into the groove, then it’s time time tool it smooth. Then I kind of repeat the process of pushing more putty into the rabbit with my palm, working my hand around the entire sash. (Instead I found an old glass window sash at a yard sale and was able to cut this piece of glass to fit.) The squeeze out putty can be scraped off and re-used, but using more than enough is important so that the glass makes a tight seal. I think they are easier to set into place – and also because my first experience using the more original triangle glazier points resulted in slipping and cracking an original piece of glass, at which point I nearly gave up. Also as carefully as I can, I use my glazing tool to press 2 or 3 glazing points into the groove on each side of the glass. As carefully as I can, and often while holding my breath, I slowly work my hands around the perimeter of the glass, pressing firmly to set the glass into the putty. It’s a little messy, and it results in a lot of excess, but I wan’t squeeze out so that’s ok. I just move a ball of putty around the rabbit, pressing it in a few inches at a time with my palm. I lay an even thickness of putty along the rabbit on the inside the sash, using more than I need. Working it like play dough for a minute or so with my hands makes it so much softer. I found it easy to work with, kind of like play dough. ![]() Recommended by all the pro’s, I use Sarco Glazing Putty, type M. The professionals who have been restoring windows for a while make a bed of the same putty that’s used on the outside of the glass, which is how wood windows would have been assembled originally 100 years ago. Now some contractors say you can lay the glass into the rabbit using caulking or an adhesive. Setting the glass means getting handsy with some glazing putty. Part 2 of restoring my home’s original wood windows.
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